Magical Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang welcomed us with hazy skies and splashes of water from children ready to start celebrating Laos New Year.  Each morning I was up early (which was easy because curfew for everyone is 11:30pm, and all businesses shut down early). 

Twice I got to observe people making food offerings to the hundreds of resident monks who file through the streets in the early morning.  Each monk seems to come out for this morning ritual, which is possibly more for show than sustenance.   

Here a visiting monk takes a photo of the daily ritual on his iPad

However, the small grandmothers off the main road are certainly making an offering that is significant to them, and the small children  begging for the monks' extra food are intent on their task. 

Our first morning, we set out on to see this beautiful place on foot.  We visited quiet and peaceful wats.   

We walked through a daytime food market

I'm practicing identifying yummy greens, like morning glory, for future market trips

Then we made our way to the Palace Museum, which was the King's Palace when Laos had a monarch.  The humble scale of the beautifully adorned presidential palace was a clear reminder of the economic realities of Laos, both in 1975 when the king abdicated and now. (Last year Laos' GDP was 17 billion; the US GDP was 15 trillion.)  The grounds also include a stunning wat that houses the city's most revered image of Buddha. (no photos because photography isn't allowed)

As we continued on foot, the Songkran water fights became more frequent. Eventually we had no escape and were soaked by three- and four-year-olds who our ran us rather easily!

We eventually climbed up the stairs to Phu Si, a collection of temples on top of 100 meter hill. 

View of the Nam Khan River

We visited the local market and three times we combed through the (tourist) night market.  One great find was three "tree of life" prints.  This is a common Buddhist symbol as Buddha received his enlightenment beneath a large tree.  The image if the tree of life dominates on side of the sim, or hall, of Wat Xieng Thong. 

More sights at Wat Xieng Thong

Neil tries to challenge a Naga

 

In the night market, I also bought beautiful  aluminum bangles made from metal recycled from bombs the U.S. military.  

From 1965 to 1973, the U.S. dropped over two million tons of bombs on the small country of Laos which had a population of less than three million people at the time in an attempt to destroy the Ho Chi Minh Trail.  Up to a third of the bombs did not detonate and today Laotians are still facing the challenge of safely uncovering bombs that did not explode and of managing all of the waste from these bombs. 

We also stopped at the local library to purchase new books for rural villages. For less than $8 USD we selected three brand new books that would be distributed to children. 

We also visited, and made purchases from, Ock Pop Tok, a fair trade textile organization. They have multiple locations and offer classes. Their store looks like an art gallery and gives details about the weaver and he number of hours she spent on a particular piece. 

Our second morning in Luang Prabang, we read that there would be an elephant ceremony as part of Bun Pi Mai (the Laotian name for Songkran). The schedule of events was conveniently posted at the airport and near the Royal Palace (in both Laotian and English).  We borrowed bikes from our hotel and set out. Minutes later we saw flashing lights and a crowd accompanying an elephant to a wat for a new year ceremony.  It was amazing!

Then as the elephant departed, we decided to follow with the crowd on our bikes in an impromptu scooter parade. I felt like I was defying the laws of physics with my slower-than-I-thought-possible pedaling pace.  People were lined up along the road with bunches of bananas and other snacks for the elephant (so the slow giant was moving even slower than usual). The whole experience felt just a little bit magical. 

Then we explored the other side of the Nam Khan River by walking across a bamboo bridge. We later learned that the Nam Khan River rises significantly in the rainy season, so bridges like this are reconstructed each year. 

We hadn't planned anything else for the day so, on a whim, we decided to go to the Kuang Si waterfall outside of town. It was an incredible decision!!  These are certainly the most amazing waterfalls I've ever seen!

The falls were three large tiers and have many basins or lagoons that are a beautiful turquoise color. 

Then we climbed up to the highest lagoon at the top of the falls. It was beautifully cold and clear. 

Then we climbed down the other side and stopped at the lagoon underneath the highest falls.

Stunning!!!!

 

The next morning, with just a few hours left in wonderful Luang Prabang, we enjoyed a few hours at a small French bakery, Le Banneton.

While we were enjoying the morning, we noticed people gathering and realized that there was going to be another new year ceremony.  On this morning, there were not one, but five, elephants parading through the town!

Monks lined up to see the elephants.

Luang Prabang is an incredible place!